It’s where the famous turquoise and waterfall pictures of California are captured, where winding roads meet coastal cliffs and connect to the Bixby bridge, and just north of where William Hearst built the famous landmark of the central coast, Hearst Castle. Big Sur, a gem of California that is accessible primarily by car and often inaccessible by cell phone service. This is one of my favorite stretches along the west coast, and there are many ways to do Big Sur, but here are some of my highlights. Below I’ll be sharing what you must do when visiting Big Sur, a mini roadtrip guide per se.
My sister booked a stay at Treebones Resort, a one-of-a-kind experience in the southern end of Big Sur. You’ll need to book Treebones in advance, as my sister booked our stay months before we came. Due to recent exposure at a Google conference, they said their demand had seen a huge spike.
Treebones is quaint, calming, comforting, and whimsical – it’s like taking a retreat up in a wooded space that also overlooks the ocean and brings your soul pure bliss. Like many Big Sur destinations where you can completely unwind and find a connection with yourself, Treebones offers morning yoga, breakfast that overlooks the ocean, and dinner either in their cozy restaurant or in their sushi bar which fits about 8 people and fills up early. Aside from a regular yurt, you can also book an ocean-view yurt, campsite for tent camping, or the “human nest” which is a fun, wooden contraption with a ladder that allows you to sleep perched on a wooden platform overlooking the ocean (similar to a tree house, but without protection from rain or condensation). We met the people staying in the human nest the weekend we were at Treebones, and they mentioned they booked it a year in advance.
Keep in mind though that Big Sur is often overcast and cloudy, especially in the mornings, so that clear ocean view isn’t always 100% guaranteed.
As far as the quality of o
ur stay, the yurt was huge and the beds were very plush. I slept amazingly both nights, and each yurt has a heating system so you definitely won’t be shivering. Staying in a yurt is essentially coined “glamping,” since you’re in nature and you still have to walk to the nearest restroom. There’s plenty of room to lay out your yoga mat, a great ambiance for meditation, and comfy chairs or your bed to curl up and read with a glass of wine.
What else is there to do in Big Sur? I still haven’t explored everything, but here are some hikes, sights, and food recommendations for any Big Sur virgin out there. *I’d highly recommend having some hikes and restaurants in mind instead of making first visits to Big Sur impromptu, as internet and GPS connection is difficult in Big Sur, so you may rely on “vintage” navigation, looking for signs, using maps, and keeping track of mileage.*
“Big Sur is the California men dreamed of years ago.” – Henry Miller
1. JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK
You’ve likely seen this on other lists, and with good reason. That famous picture of California where the waterfall meets the ocean? That’s here, at McWay Falls. As you approach Julia Pfeiffer along highway 1, be on the lookout for street parking since the park will charge you $10. The walk to the famous site is basic, non-strenuous, and less than 0.5 miles. You can wear your Sunday best for a glam shot, or stick to hiking gear, whichever suits you. However, the trail does break another way that leads to another hike, which is more appropriate for those looking to break a sweat.
2. BIXBY BRIDGE
This is another generic m
ust-see recommended for your drive down to Big Sur or if you head back north through Carmel. The Bixby Bridge is legendary, although there are several bridges of similar aesthetic along highway 1. It is easy to miss, especially after sundown, so make sure you know which stretch of the drive to expect it at. Typically, 20-30 minutes after you pass through Carmel coming through the north. You can pull over on the northern end of the bridge at both sides to take your own iconic picture.
Update, August 2020: This is also the iconic vision they display abundantly on Big Little Lies, a stellar series and book. Although it’s not actually in Monterey, this is a must to stop and awe at!
3. LIMEKILN STATE PARK
Recommended to us by our lodging facility, Limekiln seems to be a favorite by Big Sur locals. You can camp here close to the beach, and they have falls you can hike to during daylight.
4. ESALEN INSTITUTE
This is still on my Big Sur bucket list, because unfortunately I booked this at the time a fire had disrupted the community. Big Sur road conditions are particularly vulnerable to natural causes like excessive rain or fires. Esalen provides midnight dips in their hot springs, and it sounds like a rejuvenating, wholesome experience that is clothing optional under the stars. The cost is about $20-30, but you must book in advance by several weeks/months and be prepared to stay up from the hours of midnight-2 AM or later! Always check the Esalen website before planning this, as they may be closed or booked.
5. PFEIFFER BEACH
Purple sand can be found at this beach, though I believe it depends when you visit. You can take a hike to this beach, or there should be several parking lots within easy access to Pfeiffer Beach.
6. SAND DOLLAR BEACH
BBQ pits and a large parking lot greet this beach, along with easy street parking. There is a large set of stairs leading to Sand Dollar Beach, which leads to a long stretch that’s perfect for a stroll.
7. HEARST CASTLE
Not exactly Big Sur, but directly south of the winding stretch you’ll come across San Simeon, and Hearst Castle is a must-see in the central coast. When I was younger, the castle offered full tours, but now you have to select a part of the castle you’d like to tour. Favorites include the pools, and the history + architecture lesson behind Hearst, and learning just how much each acre cost.
8. PIEDRAS BLANCAS ELEPHANT SEAL ROOKERY
Also past Big Sur, but right before Hearst Castle. This home to many elephant seals especially during peak season (Dec-March, though we went in August and there were plenty), which are a very interesting looking breed of seals. Their migration patterns change, and the elephant seal can also be found at Ano Nuevo State Park further north between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay. A docent there told us about the breeding and migration patterns of elephant seals, so visiting a landmark where they station up is unique and educational. Warning though, it does smell.
1. LUCIA LODGE
The view and food make this recommendation. Lucia Lodge is a vacation rental spot, but they also house a restaurant that has a great open space outdoor patio overlooking the ocean. The fish and chips looked amazing and was ranked within the Top 10 Fish & Chips in the US on Coastal Living, and we ordered an eggplant sandwich that I still savor to this day.
2. THE RESTAURANT AT VENTANA
I love the Ventana, not because I’ve stayed here, but because in my experience, they’ve been extremely accommodating and friendly. Ventana sits directly across the street from Post Ranch Inn, which I will admit looks like an amazing location for those with a high budget. That said, the Post Ranch seems extraordinarily exclusive and elite. Both boast beautiful views of Big Sur, but the Ventana is more welcoming to anyone who desires to spend an afternoon at their spa or restaurant. The menu is generally American, and you can enjoy a view perched up on a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Highly recommended on a sunny, clear day.
3. RAGGED POINT RESTAURANT
I had a great experience here, but Yelp reviewers beg to differ. Maybe I went after management changed? Or maybe it was an exceptional day? My friend and I arrived here with ample parking and great service on a cloudy morning. We were seated in a beautiful corner spot surrounded by windows, had amazing service, great food, and prices were more affo
rdable than another option nearby.
4. PHIL’S FISH MARKET (MOSS LANDING)
This recommendation is really for someone on their way to/from Big Sur, but I just love it so much that I have to put it on this list. Phil’s has the freshest seafood that is completely worth a tiny detour just around Monterey, in Moss Landing. If you’re a huge seafood fan, stop here and you shouldn’t be disappointed. I’d especially recommend the cioppino. They have options for people that don’t want to eat seafood as well, but that is the main draw.
Other Lodging
There are many hotels, bed and breakfasts, and vacation rentals you can book in Big Sur. They all tend to be a bit pricier, so camping is the next best option, with no shortage of options. Be aware that during high season campsites book up quickly. Fortunately, highway 1 is riddled with camping grounds all up and down the coast. I’ve seen many cars parked on the side of highway 1 in a turnoff after the sun goes down, likely sleeping in their car or setting up tent to rest for a few hours (this is not legal, so I would not recommend it). I have seen highway patrol roaming up and down the coast at night, so camp at your own risk.
Campgrounds you can book:
- Limekiln
- Plaskett Creek
- Kirk Creek
- Pfeiffer State Park
- Treebones
- Ventana Campground
- Riverside Campground
What to Pack
Pack according to the season and California weather patterns. However, one exception to this rule is always bring a warm jacket or sweater no matter the season, especially if you’ll be camping! A friend and I went to Big Sur in August, and we were wearing fleece jackets with long pants and Uggs. As mentioned, the mornings are often overcast, misty, and cloudy, so be prepared. Even on a sunny day, Big Sur can be a bit breezy.
- Warm jacket, sweater, or windbreaker
- Sunglasses
- Flip flops
- Hiking shoes
- Workout attire
- Blanket (for picnics, sitting on the beach, and because it’s cold)
- Camera
- Bug repellent
- Sunscreen
- Hat (beanie or baseball cap, something that will stay put)
- Water
Key navigation tip: When you embark on your drive along the curvy highway 1, start your GPS to your destination ahead of time before you lose service so your GPS navigation will work. Otherwise it’ll be very easy to overshoot your lodging/accommodation. At least, that’s how the GPS on my phone seems to work.
Also, load up your gas tank before parting from San Simeon or Carmel, since gas stations are sparse and pricey.
